(For those asleep at the back in last week's lesson, Daughter No. 2 and I are going on a bike tour in June. She had never been on a bike until last Summer, when she stayed with me for a weekend and we joined the TOMCC on a rideout to Mid-Wales. She loved it and subsequently we agreed that this year we would do something more ambitious.)
I said up there ^^ somewhere that plans for the continental trip were well-advanced. I was lying; they are not. What they are is real, i.e. we are definitely going. I have booked the bike (and up to 9 passengers!) on Eurotunnel and have started to get it fettled for two-up touring. All luggage now fits and works, probably needs two new tyres, perhaps an oil and filter change. Other than that, nothing but email ping-pong about this and that - oh, and fatherly enquiries about passports and EHIC cards and the like.
We are starting and finishing in Calais, six days apart, so working on a 200-mile-a-day limit that gives us about 1000 miles total. This covers Belgium, the Netherlands, some of Germany and the Northern half of France. I don't want to try too much for the first time. If she likes it, we can always go again next year, but a week of head-down, arse-up blasting might bore her to tears and put her off ever going on a bike again.
Some thoughts:
1. D2 is interested in all sorts, from wartime history to Gothic cathedrals to grot like Festyland (dinosaur playground thing near Caen), and is keen to just 'chill', which I translate as having a good time without exerting herself too much. For me, just being with her will be a pleasure. After my marriage broke up, D2 and I spent a long time in separate
cells, tapping the heating pipes to communicate, and spending quality time together will be fantastic.
2. I love France, and my French is reasonably good. OK, rough but effective. I always love the chance to practise it. She didn't do much French in school, but did quite well in German. So going either way would be a challenge for one of us, and either would be fun.
3. I know part of N France quite well, and told her about some of it. Her next reply was 'shall we go somewhere that's new for both of us?' which made me think that perhaps visiting Normandy and hearing about 'when I was here last year' might not be the most fun.
In the end, she will probably dither and leave it up to me, but I'd rather plan something together that would please us both. We'll probably stay in pensions and/or cheap hotels, so any clues on that would be good too. When I go to France, it's usually camping.
So, ladies and gentlemen, any ideas?
How about the Flanders area, Ypres (Iepers / Wipers as the 1st lot of Tommies called it)?
ReplyDeleteNice, picturesque area, lots of history-thingies if either of you are into that sort of thing.
It's only a couple of hours from the Tunnel, so could be a reasonable 1st or last day destination.
Picking up on Festyland, there is Pegasus Bridge to the East of Caen, the Mulberry Harbour remains at Arromanches, the American cemetery near Omaha Beech, the war museums. Make sure you cross the Pont de Normandie at least once and visit Honfleur. Our B&B in the URL was a German hospital and then the Allies used it. Great straight roads and twisty ones in the Swiss Normand. Oh! and my wife does fabulous meals.
ReplyDeleteHehe - nice pitch! I spent a couple of weeks near Mathieu (N of Caen) last summer and did all of those. If we go that way I will certainly look you up. I love the area, but I suspect that D2 may not want too much of the 'when were a lad' stuff. We shall see.
DeleteWhat about your previous idea of seeing Millau? It's only just over the 1000 miles there and back, takes you past Paris, Orleans, Limoges (depending on route) for proper mainstream destinations, some beautiful national parklands on the way and there are some hellaciously good roads around those parts. The Viaduc's well worth the visit on its own: it's a stunning piece of architecture.
ReplyDeleteAlternatively, perhaps, Zurich via Reims/Nancy, for some good roads and a great opportunity to play in the Alps, at just under a thousand miles round trip.
Thoroughly recommend the B&B chain of hotels for good value and a nice, clean, bike-secure place to stay. They're literally all over: www dot hotel-bb dot com for details. Hotel F1 are similar but cheaper and more basic. If you're feeling flush, the Kyriad chain are a sort of family-run restaurant/inn/hotel combo whose primary selling point is their excellent cuisine - also recommended www dot kyriad dot com. All bookable in advance on the 'net, too.
I have suggested Millau to D2 (secretly, it's what I would be doing were I by myself) but she hasn't picked up on it. But plans are still very fluid. Her latest suggestion is Amiens-Reims-Strasbourg, which is all new to me. Chance to see the WWI battlefields and a ride in new territory, although I have a feeling that it is the least interesting bit to ride through. Extending it to Zurich, though ...
DeleteThanks for the hotel recomendations, duly bookmarked. Nothing like the view of someone who has actually stayed there :)
Don't go near the Strasbourg area at the week-end. Because of the number of accidents, the German authorities have banned Motos from the mountains of NE germany at week-ends. Thus they all come over to NE France to kill or injure themselves !
DeleteMany of the Alcasian towns and villages are beautful. Lots of window boxes, etc.
Hmmm - one of the ideas was to be around Strasbourg at the weekend, and even to return via NE Germany. Maybe that needs reconsidering. Thanks for the tip.
DeleteIf you have never been there and pass the Limousan region visit ORADOUR SUR GLANE. It is one of the most sobering experiences I have had in many years.
ReplyDeleteJust Googled that. Looks a very interesting place to go. I've passed through the area several times, but didn't know about that village. One for the future.
DeleteAs some one else has already mentioned, there are good BB options, and not too expensive. They tend to be located alongside motorways, in "Retail Parks", checkin is often automated, with a credit or debit card. My experince is, do not be afraid to try "none chain" places in small towns or villages. We (myself and wife number 2) have had some really fun and quirky stays in small French hotels. If you (or D2) like architechture you are absolutely spoiled for chance in France, Chartres, Rouen, Amiens, Paris of course. Personally, not sure I would ride, drive in Paris, nearest I have come is the nightmare which is their version of the M25, but there is a good metro service. If you want pure scenic beauty, Switzerland and Austria are a good choice. Germany too is a great. You need more than one trip with D2! I have not ridden a motorcycle in France, Germany, Switzerland etc, my adventures there have been by car or (since retirement) campervan, generally roads are super. Whatever you choose, hope you enjoy yourselves. If you want to see some photographs, you could look at http://kenandkathleen.blogspot.co.uk/search?updated-max=2011-05-26T18:44:00%2B01:00&max-results=7&start=7&by-date=false, just ignore most of the text, it is written to let our repsective families know where we are as we wander Europe.
ReplyDeleteMy original thought was small pensions and one-star relais-type places, but the low-cost chains are good as an option to have. I've told her we are steering clear of Paris. I did the Peripherique and the Place de la Concorde once (in a 2CV) and survived by keeping my eyes closed, but I'm not keen to repeat. Will check the blog later on, thanks.
DeleteMy starter for 10: show D2 your hippy-age heritage and go for adventure. Book a really, really nice hotel with pool and spa (Ds like them) for first and last days and then just let it happen and see where you end up - a curse on comfortable, middle aged over-planners.
ReplyDeleteI totally agree. I'm planning on booking hotels for the first and last nights (although I was going to go for mega-cheap - wrong?) but I much prefer not to plan to the last detail. My Dad was an over-planner, and I have reacted against that all my life. Plan the stuff that has to be right, and leave the rest to serendipity.
DeleteI'll look nto the spa/pool option, though. Perhaps she can pay :)
If you spend some quality google/lastminute-investigation time now you should get the posh hotel for reasonable amount - my experience is that it sort of 'fixes' holidays in the minds of ladies, large and small. Having said that the detail is just that - the main thing is you are going on holiday with D2 'a deux' - and have the opportunity to tell her...you know.... important stuff.
DeleteI've been Googling furiously, and the only hotels in Calais or environs that are under about €60 per night PER PERSON are signified by appalling reviews. As we are, er, a chap and a chapess who are not in a marital relationship, we will be looking for 2 x single rooms, and the French don't do single rooms. Every night will be two double rooms to pay for. That would be a minimum of €240 for the first and last nights, which pushes the cost up significantly. I'm going to start looking further afield, perhaps at private estabishments. Prices are a lot lower in Boulogne, for example, which is only 20 mles away. Plus you don't have the ferry traffic and (from experience) Harriet, Hugo and Tamsin at the next table in the restaurant.
DeleteI'm trying to do this on a shoestring, and it's not working!
Last sentence - yup. I know what you mean there.
Stay overnight inland from Calais. It is much cheaper.
DeleteThe hotels, etc in the Calais area rip-off the Brits who are catching an early ferry or train. If possible travel about lunchtime, often it the quieter period.
Travel time is fixed by the distances within the UK, but late afternoon was cheap enough. I'm definitely going to look for somewhere inland. Good idea, thanks.
DeleteI have no ideas as I've never been across the pond but I wanted to chime in and say how great I think it is that you and D2 can go on this trip.
ReplyDeleteIt sounds like you two will have a lot of un no matter which direction you ride. I'll be looking forward to the ride reports.
I can't tell you how much I am looking forward to it. I'll certainly post some reports, although (see other posts) maybe not at the time, as my little netbook companion has died this week. I'll have if I can get sufficiently adept at using the iPhone.
DeleteLast time I did a trip like this (too long ago) we stayed one night in a posh hotel and ate in local cafes and the next night stayed in a dive and ate posh.
ReplyDeleteI dont know why, it just seemed to happen that way, it gave a sort of surreal edge to the whole trip..
I think we'll be staying in dives and eating cheap, but it will be fun. You don't know my daughter, but surreal comes as part of the deal.
DeleteHead due East towards the Nurburgring via Spa, see Eifel mountains and visit at least 3 different countries before the border controls come down.
ReplyDeleteVisiting old war time stuff seems to be a preoccupation with us bikers of a certain generation and Mrs N seems to think it rather strange!
Whilst in Germany visit all the motorcycle apparel shops, Polo. Louis, HG etc etc.....
N
PS I am going to be in South Wales 2/3 June...
So much to do, so little time ...
DeleteVisiting HG in Germany sounds like a plan. She can pay.
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ReplyDeleteHave a blast - and do tell us if the law require you to produce your compulsory-to-carry personal breath test kit! (Although how you're supposed to test yourself whilst 2 up on a motorbike is beyond my skill set).
DeleteI think the breath-test stuff and the compulsory 150 sq cm of hi-viz are for 2013. But I will endeavour to try. have one of those key-ring testers, will that do?
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